Hong Kong Binding: How-to

The internet is full of tutorials for Hong Kong seam binding, but I am adding mine because the method most often demonstrated is not the neatest one.

I had not done any Hong Kong binding in a while and wanted to refresh my memory before making a Pilvi Coat. The instructions I found suggested stitching double-folded bias binding to a sewn seam allowance and then topstitching it in place. Halfway through I remembered the better way.

This is less bulky, takes less time and leaves no line of topstitching on the finished seam.

Prepare the binding

I used bought and pre-folded binding on the coat - fourteen metres of it - but cutting your own is both more economical and more flexible. Cotton lawn is ideal, especially a fine striped lawn that makes the inside of the garment feel considered.

Cut bias strips 3cm wide and leave them flat rather than pressing them into folds. To estimate the length from a square, multiply the two sides and divide by the width of the strip. A 70cm square gives roughly 16 metres of 3cm tape.

Bind before assembling the seam

1. With right sides together and raw edges aligned, sew the bias strip to each seam allowance 5mm from the edge.
2. Press the binding away from the fabric. You should be looking at the right side of the binding and the right side of the garment piece.
3. Wrap the loose edge around the raw fabric edge and press it snugly. Keep the true edge of the garment clear so the binding does not change the seam allowance.
4. Place the garment pieces right sides together and sew the actual seam. Any allowance wider than 5mm will catch the wrapped edge on the reverse.
5. Press the seam first as sewn, then open. The raw edges are covered and the second edge of the bias is secured by the seam itself.

The result is cleaner than a double-fold binding secured with a second line of stitching. It is a small construction detail, but one that makes an unlined coat or jacket feel beautifully finished when you turn it inside out.